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The Western Ghats are at their busiest after sunset. With headlamps dimmed and voices low, we look for bush frogs calling from the cardamom, a sleeping lizard on a branch, the eye-shine of a mouse deer and, in the monsoon, patches of glowing fungi on fallen logs. The walk is about 2 km on the estate paths, starting an hour after dusk. Best from June to November, when frogs and fungi are most active. Safety: wear long trousers and closed shoes, keep to the group and never wander off the path; the guide carries a first-aid kit and a spare light.